Surfing as defined, is a surface water sport in which the wave rider, referred to as a surfer, rides on the forward or deep face of a moving wave, which is usually carrying the surfer towards the shore.
Ideally, you need to lay in the middle of the surfboard with your chest just above the center point. You need to have a good balance of your body. Next is to paddle to gain speed. Move one arm forward at a time, not both at the same time.
With your palms facing down and your toes at the end of the board, push up using your shoulders and spring off your toes. Bring your front leg up to the center of the board and twist your hips at the same time. Practice this movement on the beach first before going to the water.
The basic steps are quite simple, but very challenging to achieve. It’s very difficult to stand-up on the board with the waves. But once practiced, you’ll learn to tame the great waves.